MIDICraft's MIDINET CD-ROM/MIDICraft's MIDINET CD-ROM.iso/KORG_I-S/DOCS/IROM_RPL.FAQ

Internet Message Format | 1996-08-28 | 8.1 KB

From: [e-mail]

i2-i3 VUK (Version Update Kit) instructions.

There is an update to the ROM for the i2/i3 synth.  To check your
ROM version, hold the EDIT STYLE button down when you switch on.
The ROM version is displayed for about 1 sec in the bottom left hand
corner of the display.  The new ROM is version #58.

How to change the ROM (taken from the instructions supplied with the
VUK):

WARNING:  Sensitive to static electricity.  Avoid touching any
exposed surfaces or components. Unplug the power before you open the
unit.

1.  Place the i2/i3 upside down on a soft surface (to avoid
    scratching the front panel, joystick, etc).

2.  Remove all the screws that have lock washers ie 14 on the i2 or
    10 on the i3. One of these on the RH side is heavily recessed.

3.  Remove the 2 screws on the Floppy Disk Drive Cover.

4.  DO NOT remove or loosen any other screws.

5.  The Floppy Disk Drive cover will now "roll off" in your hand.

6.  Carefully place the i2/i3 face up again.

7.  The whole of the front panel will now rotate up.  Do this to
    gain access to the circuit boards. Prop the front panel so that
    there is no strain on connecting ribbons, wires, etc.

8.  Check out the main circuit board.  There is only one chip which
    looks exactly like the new VUK chip - it is towards the front of
    the circuit board, very close to the keyboard (almost underneath
    the wires attached to the keyboard).  It probably has a stcker
    on it with a 6-figure number.

                         ********************************

From: [e-mail] (Art Morrison)
Subject: Re: i2/3 ROM Install
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 10:10:31 -0700 (PDT)

A large carpeted floor worked well for me, and minimized the risk
of scratching or damage.

The i2/3 case opens like a clam shell, with two hinges in the back
of the case.

First the Floppy Disk cover must be removed by taking out the two
screws on the bottom holding it in.  Then pivot it slightly and
remove it (the cover interlocks with the upper portion of the drive
and would prevent the top of the case from pivoting upward).

Then locate 14 screws (i2 only, 10 on i3) on the bottom of the case
at the back and sides with "star" lockwashers attached.  One of them
is recessed in a hole on the case.  Remove all except the two
closest to the front of the case.  Remove these last two taking care
that the case's top doesn't  "drop open"  if you have it standing on
its back edge vertically.

Lay the case down and pivot back the top of the case.  The main
board just behind the keys (KLM - 1631B in mine, an i2) has the rom
chip socket.  Its located up close to the keys on the board (its the
only socketed chip that is visible).  Note which way round it is
seated (there is a notch at one end).  You MUST install the new chip
the same way round.

Make sure you don't generate a static charge while you are walking
or moving during the remaining portion of the procedure.  Frequently
touch the case of the unit or a good ground to discharge any static
you may have built up.  One spark could destroy the chip (I've never
lost one that way but that seems to be the consensus of opinion).
Some recommend wrapping a wire around your wrist and connecting it
to the case somewhere.

Using a small screwdriver pry the chip gently up out the the socket
on one side by wedging the screwdriver between the bottom of the
chip and the top of the socket and gently turning. Then grab with
your fingers and gently "rock" the chip up out of the socket.  Now
for the "tricky" part.

ROM chips take a fair amount of pressure to insert, and the trick is
to make sure that each pin is in the correct position and that you
insert the chip properly using the minimum pressure necessary.
Before beginning the seating process for the chip, lay the new ROM
chip on its side on a table and gently rock that side, pressing the
pins against the table until they make a 90 degree angle with the
chip top, and then do the same for the other side.

Then place the chip in the socket with the notch in the side of the
chip oriented the same way as the old chip was on the board. It was
on the left side in my unit.  Do not go by whether the printing on
the ROM chip is right side up or not.  Check pin alignment to see
that each pin is resting in the appropriate slot.  If its good (use
penlight to get a good view) then gently start rocking the chip,
applying pressure to seat the pins in the socket. If you press too
hard you could damage the main board by "flexing" it too much and
possibly breaking some of the foil paths.

Use a rocking procedure to seat the chip with the minimum pressure.
Recheck the pins when its seated to make sure they all went into the
right place.  Check also from the ends of the chip, that the bottom
of the chip is touching the top of the socket to ensure its fully
seated. A gap here may indicate that the chip has not been fully
seated.

Close the case, plug in the power cord, and turn the unit on to make
sure it boots up.  It it looks good, remove the cord, and replace
the screws holding the case together.

You can verify your new ROM by powering up the unit while holding
only the "edit style" key down.  The new date and version number
will be displayed for about a second in the lower left corner of the
display.  This is a non-destructive process, unlike initiating test
mode.

                       **************************

From: [e-mail]
Subject: #58 ROM chip...... friendly WARNING !!
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 96 12:32 PDT

I installed my newly arrived  ROM chip last night..
It's all in place and works well, based on preliminary
testing re BSEQ to Mid saving etc.

I followed Art Morrisson's installation guide he was
kind enough to send me a few weeks ago.
It's excellent  but I thought to add just one minor,
yet important detail and that's  to save some unsuspecting
soul  a mishap of catastrophic  consequence,... possibly.
This has to do with the identification of the chip in
question.

I will start at a point where it is assumed that you have
already opened up your shell and are looking at the
exposed  pc board :  Studying this board with all the printed
circuitry, you will see KLM-1631B . ( I have the i3.. Art Morrisson
saw the same on his  i2 model..)
Supposing you see the two oblong chips, make very certain
to focus in on the  one in a    R A I S ED   position. Art is 100%
correct when he says that this is the only one socketed.
But the uninitiated may not detect the difference between
the socketed chip and the  other which is not socketed but
soldered into the board by looking at them superficially from
the top.  When you see the  print  which prominently reads
"KLM-1631B"  in its normal readable position.... not upside down.,
then you  should focus your attention the chip beneath this
identification  print and not  on the one ABOVE it.
I know it's a minor detail as you read this, but attempting
to prey or wedge a small screwdriver between the chip's base
and the chip, per se, could have disastrous  results  if you happen
to try loosening the WRONG chip. They look quite similar in size !
So, remember,  the chip on  a  'pedestal' is the one and only.
King on the THRONE sort of thing.. as a memo jogger.
Mine separated easily and the replacement chip's pins
entered without hesitation but did need  a bit of pressure to insert.
Most multi-pinned components do....

This message was precipitated , initially, by  me ( myself)
looking at the  WRONG chip and ALMOST getting the
screwdriver into position there. I don't know what made
me stop but it must have been those  very fine circuit veines
leading to the chip.. the wrong one... which made me wonder suddenly.
I then thought: Boy, if this can happen here, it could happen elsewhere.
let's warn the boys . It does not take  too much imagination
to realize what could happen when  printed circuitry beneath a chip
is scored or damaged. Most likely you'd have to replace the entire board.
I shudder..........

........fraternally  ( ??) ........:))

Ralph Melville
Port Edward, B.C.
Canada